AERMACCHI-WORLD – Restorations
 

The gas tank had to be repainted as gasoline went underneath the paint around the gas cap. As the decals got to be pulled of for this I decided to go with the 1970 this time instead of the 1971. I also replaced the rear shocks with higher quality Hagon shocks.

Front wheel hub

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Overhaul of the front wheel hub is complete. Everything cleaned and both bearings replaced with new ones (Size 6202). I also replaced the brake shoes with a brand new set as well as the springs.

Shiny

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The pleasing result of the glossy polishing and the glass bead blasted cylinder head.

Redone rear wheel

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Here you can see the completly redone rear wheel. Really EVERYTHING was replaced with new or NOS parts: Hub, bearings, seals, chain adjusters, sproket, spokes, rim, tube, brakes, springs, tire holders and tire itself. The last pictures shows the current progress and me working on perfect reproduction gas tank decals for a 1974 model as originals are not available anymore and the reproductions available are no good. You can also see that I was able to get a very early vented right side cover for my project.

  

One of the best moments when restoring an old bike is to get the rechromed parts back, but also one of the most expensive moments. 🙂
The second picture shows some NOS parts I gathered for my project.

I bought some NOS parts from my favorite parts supplier “Carl” who also found me a pair of perfect Sebac five way adjustable rear shocks as well as a new rear fender.

A new air filter and seal as replacement for the old used ones. I also bought a new headlamp housing and I will replace the headlamp with a modern H4 to get some light out of it. I will also replace the ignition key and rubber boot as well as Speedometer and tachometer with NOS ones.

Old wheels

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Old wheels:
Rear: Radaelli Rim 2.15×18, 36 spokes with a Continental 3.25×18 GS2 tire
Front: Radaelli Rim 1.85×19, 36 spokes with a Continental 3.00×19 GS2 tire

    

Powder coating

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dsc_2100-2-aw dsc_2104-2-aw dsc_2113-3-aw
Parts back are back from powder coating and the meanwhile overhauled front forks are freshly polished and fitted with new seals (32-42-7), reflectors, sliders and new rubber dust covers.

Marzocchi fork

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sx175-marzocchi

I have disassembled the front fork so I can overhaul it. The sliders will be replaced with NOS parts.

Marzocchi:
32mm;
Fork seals: 32-42-7 – two each side;

Turn signal posts

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blinkerstange0 blinkerstange1 blinkerstange2 blinkerstange3

The previous owner of the bike did cut off the turn signal stuts so I had to remanufacture them and have them welded to the frame.

GT350-Spring GT350-Spring2
I really have to take care of getting the bike street legal now. I rode 4 kilometers and there is still some trouble, but I will get it managed…

SX175-Seitendeckel SX175-Lochoeltank SX175-Gabel SX175-Auspuff SX175-Ausbruch2 SX175-Ausbruch1

  • Fork tubes rusty -> Needs replacement (Marzocchi type)
    • Replaced with NOS parts
  • Reflectors on front fork needs replacement (easy to get)
    • Replaced with NOS
  • No mirrors
    • Replaced with correct early style HD
  • A hole in the oil tank? Why?
    • Repaired -> welded
  • Studs for mounting the rear turn signals missing
    • Built new ones and welded them to the frame
  • Paint of the frame is not nice anymore
    • Completely powder coated
  • Pipe bend and two holes with screws in it! Why?
  • Two broken out parts on the left side of the crankcase.
  • Side cover is a hand made metal part. Not too bad done, but why? I have a NOS one in stock -> Going to replace
    • Replaced with a rare early 1974 side cover (vented version)
  • Paint job is not done bad, but it’s a 74 model and someone used 75 decals. Also there is a wrong hole in the rear fender for an aftermarket taillight.
  • Wrong ignition switch ( Three connectors)
    • Replaced with OEM 10 connectors switch
  • Wiring harness in bad condition
  • Wrong horn
    • Replaced with NOS horn
  • No spark
  • Seat was redone okay. Top is still original, sides are replaced by someone
    • Seat pan powder coated, New original seat cover professionaly done;
  • Missing turnsignals
    • Set of NOS CEV turnsignals
  • Wrong handlebar
    • Replaced with OEM & rechromed
  • Aftermarket headlamp
    • Replaced with NOS headlamp shell
    • New reflector & glass
    • OEM headlamp rings rechromed
  • Tires are junk
    • Rear tire replaced with a new Cheng Shin C-186
  • Rims need rechroming or replacing
    • New rear wheel rim
    • NOS rear wheel hub
    • New rear spokes (stainless)
    • New rear tire holders
    • new rear tube
  • Side stand missing; Someone fitted a center stand to the bike. It’s done…okay, but not great
    • replaced with NOS parts
  • Rear shocks (SEBAC) needs replacing or rechroming
    • Replaced with NOS!
  • Instruments are usable but not nice
    • Replaced speedometer with NOS parts
    • Replaced rubber mounts with NOS parts
  • kick start is from a 75 model – that’s okay to me
    • NOS 1974 kick start

SX175-trailer SX175-athome

  • New project
  • It’s an early 1974 SX-175 (someone repainted it in 75 design)
  • Work done:
    • frame sandblasted;
    • mainstand removed (not original), parts for kickstand bought and built back to Original condition
    • Hole in oiltank closed (welded)
    • Turn signal struts in rear rebuilt and welded to frame
    • Original turn signal bought
    • Frame powder coated
    • Handlebar replaced (wasn’t Original)
    • Side cover replaced (wasn’t Original)
    • airfilter housing, battery cage, brake pedal, kickstand, chain guard, skid guard, rear fork and Triple tree powder coated
    • fork tubes replaced with NOS ones, fork legs polished, all new seals, everything cleaned, whole front fork overhauled
    • New lamp housing, new lamp (H4)
    • Rear wheel hub replaced as it was damaged, brand new brake shoes, linigs and springs
    • New airfilter
    • All screw and nuts are replaced with stainless stell or overhauled old ones

Turn signals

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GT350-turnsignals GT350-turnsignals-2 GT350-turnsignals-3 GT350-turnsignals-4

Required by law for this production year in Germany already. As in Italy turn signals were not required and the bike delivered without them I had to find a solution that does not insult the eyes and so I did use period correct italian CEV turn signals

I had to modify the seat pan because the gas tank that was originally on my bike had big dents that are very hard to repair. I didn’t know about the damage, because someone filled the holes and repainted it. After removing the paint this was a big surprise. I bought a replacement gas tank on ebay. It had 1972 decals, but I was sure it is not a 1972 gas tank. When it was repainted I noticed the replacement tank is about 5 centimeters longer than my original tank!

Well, the replacement tank fits, but than there is no room for the seat. I relocated the seat 5 centimeters to the back and hopefully this will solve my problem. I will have the pan cleaned and powder coated and the seat will be recovered.

damaged-tank1 damaged-tank2 pan1 pan2 yellow-seat

I replaced the airfilter (oval type) with a new UFI part. I also replaced the faulty LUCAS flasher relay with a modern electronic flasher relay as the turnsignals did burn constantly instant of flashing.


Received back the freshly polished engine covers. I will also replace the single leading shoe front brake with the better double leading shoe. Hub is the same only brake shoes and brake plate needs to be replaced for that.

polished-gt350

steering lock

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lenkschloss1-1 Lenkschloss2-1 Lenkschloss3-1

As I couldn’t find a correct steering lock for the Aermacchi I tried my luck with something that looked similar and made it fit with a lathe. Surprisingly it worked on the first attempt.

 

Dellorto PHB32

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New seals for the carb today.

  • Dellorto PHB 32 Ad
    • Needle K7
      • middle positon
    • Throttle piston 40/1
    • main jet 115
    • main nozzle AB260
    • low speed jet 55
    • starting jet 70
    • float valve seat 250

 

Before you start:
There is no guarantee for the correctness of the information provided. That following steps describe the procedure for my 1970 GT-350. It’s a different procedure on other model years!
To my knowledge (again, without guarantee) this is valid for 1969 to 1972 Sprint 350cc street bikes and not for earlier bikes and not for the 1973-1974 electric start!
Please ailways use a few drops of oil to fit the parts together.

drivegears-arrange1Pic 1.

  • We start with an empty right side crankcase. Only the shifter pawl carrier (C) is already put in, as it must be inserted before the primary drive gear.
  • Pull out the connecting rod (A) to tdc (top dead center), this will move one of the three notches (B) on the flywheel shaft to 3 O’clock position.

drivegears-arrange2Pic 2.

  • Slide clutch drive gear (D) on shaft of flywheel. It will stop in the correct position because of the conus of the shaft. Don’t turn the shaft! The mark on the clutch drive gear (arrow) is of no meaning at this point.

drivegears-arrange3Pic 3.

  • Put the woodruf key (E) into notch of the shaft. It must be the notch at 3 O’clock positon while connecting rod is at tdc position!

drivegears-arrange4Pic 4.

  • Slide pinion gear (F) on shaft with woodruf key in position at 3 O’clock and make sure the mark on the pinion gear points to 3 O’clock also (arrow)! It sits correctly if the surface of the pinion gear touches the surface of the clutch drive gear.
  • Put the lock ring and nut on the shaft. One latch will be bend into the notch of the pinion gear the other around the flat side of the nut after the nut is tightend! (These steps are not pictured)
  • When tightening the nut you must make sure the shaft will not turn.

drivegears-arrange5Pic 5.

  • Next we  put the primary drive gear on the transmission shaft. On that picture you can see what parts must be fitted inside the gear. A thick spacer (G) that must have the correct thickness to arrange the primary gear in one line with the clutch drive gear (D).
  • Inside the gear are two roller bearings. On top of the bearings will fit another distant spacer.

drivegears-arrange6Pic 6.

  • Put the primary drive gear (J)  on transmission shaft and don’t forget the stuff explained in Pic 5. You will need probably 2-3 trys to make the two marks fit the one mark of the clutch drive gear. For that operation you may turn the flywheel shaft with the clutch drive gear.
  • The marks on the primary drive gear (J) and the clutch drive gear (D) however are not time critical. It’s just the way the teeth are fitted together by factory. That’s the reason for using gears always in matched sets! If you don’t, you will risk damage to gears.

drivegears-arrange7Pic 7.

  • Next we put the roller bearing (L) for the camshaft into crankcase and also set the two tappet guides in (K).

drivegears-arrange8Pic 8.

  • A spacer will be used on camshaft to allign the camshaft gear exactly to the pinion gear.
  • I will not describe how to fit the camshaft gear to the camshaft as it can only be fitted in one direction

drivegears-arrange9Pic 9.

  • Put the camshaft with gear (N) into the roller bearing (Pic 7.) and arrange the two marks with the one mark on the pinion gear (F).

drivegears-arrange10Pic 10.

  • Screw the oil pump into case (4 screws) and make sure the O-Ring is still on the oil pump for a sealing to the crankcase. Put the gear on the oil pump shaft. It is not time critical and has no mark so it doesn’t matter how it will fit together with the pinion gear.

Putting together

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bearings bearings-and-rod
pressingtogether balancing

The new ballerings, the new rod and the overdone flywheel getting back together. Rudolf than trued the flywheel to 0,01 mm which is much better than factory Defaults.

Crank pin

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insertingplugs insertingplugs2
insertingcrankpin insertingcrankpin2

Pressing new plugs into the crankpin and than pressing the crankpin into the flywheel with copper paste. You need about 5 tons of pressure for this.

NOS connecting rod

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crankpin newrod

We polished the crankpin so the new bearings do not have to cut off material. The original bearings which consists of two parts rollers in each cage we replaced with “one-part only” bearings as you can see on a later picture.

Kurbelwelle-vorher lasergeschweisst
aufmassdrehen1 aufmassdrehen2
aufmassdrehen3

You can see some marks on the left shaft of the flywheel. I gave it to a laser welding specialist who added some material. Later we took the material off again on the lathe and the result is a very nice and smooth shaft within the tolerances of a new shaft.

The flywheel

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rudolf1 rudolf2
rudolf3 rudolf4
rudolf5

Here you can see how we pressed the crankpin from the flywheel and the oil dirt we found inside the crankpin after drilling out the plug. This is a typical 4-Stroke-Aermacchi problem and the reason you really should change the oil once a year or every 1000 miles. Rudolf decided the rod is used up and that I will need a new one.

Gas tank decals

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71-Sprint1

While waiting for the paint job to be completed I have reproduced the gas tank decals as vinyl stickers. These are the 1971 design as I will go with the 1971 US design in sparkling green.

Right fork stem

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8854 stem29
out-for-chrome

A lot of fresh grease and 50x new balls (8854) for a replacement fork stem with fork lock hole on the correct side. The parts shown on the third photo are going out for beeing rechromed.

New bearings

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cases-new-bearings done-front-hub
triple-tree-gt70

I have replaced every bearing in the engine case with new ones. The front wheel hub is also redone and waiting for new stainless steel spokes and a brand new 1.85×19 front rim. I have also replaced the bearings and the dust seals here. At the moment I am working front fork.

New bearings

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newbearings

Left to right: 98302, 16006, 6305. Tony Foale suggested to use C3 bearings for the flywheel (3305 and 6305) and so I will do.

korund NOS-tach

I found a NOS tach. in perfect condition for a good price.
I also received back a first pile of parts that have been corund blasted in the meantime.  The wheel hubs will now be polished to shine as new again.

case1-ring case2-ring
case-empty case-empty-2
case-empty-3 getriebe

Smaller bearing for Transmission in both sides of the case. 15x40x9 mm. One was marked x98302 KH SRO. The other was just marked Made in Italy and something I could not read like PVR AVP. Don’t know.

for-blasting

The wheels are totally disassembled. I will give them out for cleaning (sand blasting) and I will probably have the hubs polished. Cylinder head and barrel will also be sand blasted.
Yes, there is a X-90 cylinder head also on this picture. 😉

Puzzle

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puzzle transmission
transmission1 transmission2
transmission3 crank-right-1
crank-right-2

double row ball bearing for crank in right engine half: 3305 FAG O.B Germany. Size: 25x62x25,4mm

cheap kukko

I bought a cheap tool set to remove the ball bearings from the engine case (left picture). I totally regret it. It was a waste of money. The tool is from a much to soft metal and it bends while the bearing still sits tight. I now own a professional bearing puller that worked like a charm.

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