Oct 292021
 

The gas tank was leaking tiny bits of gasoline. I didn’t notice for a very long time as it was sucked up by a rubber block. At some point I noticed that the rubber block was twice as big as it is suppost to be and over some time very small amounts of gasoline dripped to the ground. The source for the leak was on the bottom of the gas tank, where the brackets for the antivibration rubber blokcks are welded to the gas tank. Obviously the metal of the gas tank was weakend by the welding process so it leaked after about 50 years later.
So I went to the a welder company and they laser welded around both brackets without even damaging the paint. It’s now sealed again and probably good for many more years.

 Posted by at 21:45
Jun 112017
 

Litte ride out with a friend. This is somehow an interesting picture as the bikes are so similar but on the other hand so different.
In front the european interpretation of an “Aermacchi” as sports bike with a light frame and without electric start. In the back the US interpretation of the bike as a two-seater vehicle with a large seat and electric starter.

 Posted by at 19:54
Jun 162013
 
  • 06/16/2013: First oil change at 120 miles (193 Km) – out HD 20W50 – in Castrol 20W50
  • 06/19/2013: Re-Tightened nuts and bolts. Impressive how many became lose after that short period.
  • 06/30/2013: The plan was to attend an oldtimer get together and market in Ansbach (mototechnia) which is about 35 miles from my home. I made 2/3 of the way, when suddenly the engine cut off (odometer: 160 miles). Luckily that was very close to Aermacchi parts distributor Rudolf Jungjohann. The error was found quickly: The circuit breaker screw came loose and was damaged, so I had no spark at all. We put a replacement screw in adjusted the timing and the bike did run again. Sadly there was no time left to attend the get together anymore on this day, but I did make it home on the bike without trouble (180 miles)
  • 07/07/2013: Believe it or not – the kickstand broke into two parts just out of nothing. (odometer: 213 miles / 342 kilometers) Luckily this happened while in my own driveway and still sitting on the bike. Imagine what could have happened, while the bike resting on the kickstand!
    kickstand-broke
  • 07/08/2013: As I can’t ride the bike at the moment because of the broken kickstand, I decided to disassemble the right engine cover again to replace the oil seal for the clutch hub. Reason: I am losing tiny amounts of oil through the dry clutch. This happens because of my own stupidity, I mounted the oil seal with the wrong side facing the oil. I realized that by looking at pictures I did during assembling the engine.
  • 07/08/2013: Replaced the tach drive because of a worn out oil seal. I had a NOS one at home already, because I expected that problem.

 

 

 Posted by at 23:06
Apr 192013
 

The first step for getting the bike road legal again. I bought the bike without any papers in 2006 and as it was imported in very bad shape from spain it never had any german papers. The officials tested it 2 hours for beeing safe, beeing within noise regulations and so on. I also had them investigating the bike if it is in original condition as it was sold by factory in 1974. a car or bike older than 30 year ins original and very good condition can be registrated as “oldtimer” in Germany which brings some benefits and safes taxes for example.

TUEV

 Posted by at 13:00
Apr 142013
 

I did some pictures of the finished bike. I am very proud. It almost looks like brand new with very tiny cut backs. On one picture you can see my special bike trailer which can be lowered to ground and lifted with an air compressor for easy loading by one person only. I just had to modify it a bit as it is designed for bike bikes with wide wheel base like my HD FXDL. The trailer also has pneumatic shock absortion and I love it. If you don’t use the trailer it can be folded and easily stored in the garage!

fertig-1 fertig-2
VanVossen-short skala-fertig
schraeg tank-oben

 Posted by at 19:56
Apr 112013
 

Finally I received the missing original handlebar switch for light, horn and turn-signals. There is no one in the world who can be worse at soldering than me, but in the end it is mounted to the handlebar and it works good. Thanks to Carl from the US for helping me out!

cev169-SS cev169-dran

 Posted by at 10:38
Apr 022013
 

I made a km/h scale and sticked it on top of the speedometer to make it road legal in Germany. ūüôā
The local locksmith also made me a copy of the key for the ignition switch, as I had only one ignition key.

Tacho km/h

 Posted by at 17:00
Mar 172013
 

With a NOS main wiring harness there is still a lot of rewiring to do, but so far everything works out great. The original starter relay was broken, but with help I was able to find a brand new one to replace the original Bosch.

rewiring.jpg starter-relay

 Posted by at 17:16
Sep 102011
 

Used original alloy trim stripes on the side of the seat. I had to trade them against something else and I bought new T-bolts to mount them. The seat turned out great, but overall it was an expensive fun to get it there.

seat-done.jpg

 Posted by at 22:22
Feb 272011
 

On the left side you can see the piston that came with my replacement cylinder. It looks good on the first look, but if you look closer there is no doubt a butcher worked on it. Now I have a usable replacement cylinder but no piston for it.

pistons.jpg idiot.jpg piston-ring.jpg

 Posted by at 21:30
Feb 252011
 

The used replacement cylinder I bought on ebay. Got it back from bead blasting today. On the second picture you can see parts I am going to send out for polishing and chroming.

clean-cylinder1.jpg needs-work.jpg

 Posted by at 21:37
Feb 112011
 

Here you can see the freshly powder coated seat pan and the reproduction seat cover I bought. The seat cover is professional made but does not have the original pattern on top.

seatpan.jpg

 Posted by at 21:57
Feb 102011
 

I have removed all parts from the right side engine cover so I can send it out for polishing. The cylinder head need cleaning as well. The oil seal for the clutch basket is a42x56x7 the ball bearing for the advance is a 6203 and the oil seal a uncommon size of 17x32x5.

oil-seal.jpg oil-seal-bearing.jpg oil-seal2.jpg send-out.jpg

 Posted by at 22:38
Feb 092011
 

High precision, fine german engineering for a special tool ūüėȬ†to open the inner clutch hub nut.
By the way as I have a 74 SS-350 this is the improved alloy clutch hub which was introduced on late 73 models. It can be identified by the higher number of toothes compared to the earlier steel hub. The late version also needs different clutch plates.

special-tool.jpg special-tool2.jpg outer-clutch-basket-out.jpg outer-clutch-basket-out2.jpg

 Posted by at 23:19
Feb 062011
 

Disassembled kickstarter so I can send it out for rechroming. Cleaned the taillight bracket and removed the camshaft. The oilseal is an uncommon size of 17-32-5 and the ballbearing behing is a 6203

kickstart.jpg kickstart2.jpg taillight-bracket.jpg taillight-bracket2.jpg taillight-bracket3.jpg camshaft-out.jpg camshaft-out2.jpg camshaft-out3.jpg outer-clutch.jpg right-side-inside.jpg

 Posted by at 18:46
Feb 032011
 

J√ľrgen send me his self made tool for removing the clutch hub. Together with a power wrench I was able to get the center nut lose and to remove the clutch hub. The surprise followed instantly, as for the nut of the clutch shell I need a kind of spanner tool.

clutch-tool.jpg clutch-inner.jpg clutch-outer.jpg inside-right-side.jpg inside-right-side2.jpg

 Posted by at 23:26
Jan 282011
 

I had the lamp housing powdercoated a while a go. The reflector brackets and reflectors are nos. Today I bought a standard aftermarket H4 lamp insert that fits quiet good. The difference is that there is an extra parking light so I have to rember this, when the bike will be rewired.

headlight1.jpg headlight2.jpg

 Posted by at 21:51
Jan 252011
 

After some basic cleaning on the cylinder I noticed some bad scuffs in the bore which almost look like they are the result of rust. I somehow have the feeling that even a rebore and oversize piston¬†wouldn’t compensate – maybe a 0.8mm – but looking for a better cylinder and oversize piston seems to be the right thing to do right now.

bore1.jpg bore2.jpg

 Posted by at 21:53
Jan 232011
 

I am currently stuck on the engine, because I need to buy a 36mm wrench for the sprocket gear, borrow a clutch holding tool, and ordering a puller with longer arms to get the starter sprag off the shaft.

Today I packed the left side engine covers and the handlebar so I can send them out for polishing / rechroming tomorrow. I also have two ugly seat pans which I will bring out for sand blasting and powder coating the upcoming week. I will use the pan that comes out better.

seat-pans.jpg

 Posted by at 18:40
Jan 192011
 

Well, I am no expert, but I am pretty sure this starter motor will not start any engine ever again. I am lucky that I bought a new one as replacement years ago, just because I got it for a good price. My replacement starter is the improved version which disengages when the engine fires back.

starter-motor.jpg starter-motor2.jpg starter-motor3.jpg starter-motor4.jpg starter-motor-new.jpg

 Posted by at 23:46
Jan 172011
 

A colleague¬†lent me an extractor that worked getting the rotor lose. But somehow I am confused about the shaft, isn’t it supposed to have a notch and a key? Somehow this looks strange. I also learned the hard (hurting way) that it is better to leave the center nut loose on the main shaft when¬†pulling the rotor.

extractor.jpg coils.jpg alternatorshaft.jpg alternator-inside.jpg

 Posted by at 20:56
Jan 162011
 

As I am stuck on the left side of the engine as I need to buy or borrow a proper extractor to get the alternator rotor off I turned the engine and trying my luck on the right side. Removed clutch cover, circuit breaker cover, oilstick and speedo shaft.

Then again, I am stuck as I need a proper tool for removing the clutch.

 right-side.jpg covers-off.jpg covers.jpg tachoabnehmer.jpg circuitbreaker.jpg clutch-release.jpg

 Posted by at 17:01
Jan 152011
 

Today I drained the engine oil removed some of the clutch parts and cleaned some parts. I then noticed the kickstart shaft already has some broken out teeth. I have to find a replacement for it.

 draining.jpg oilfilter.jpg oilfilter2.jpg kickstart shaft clutch parts clutch shaft

 Posted by at 00:01
Jan 132011
 

Today I received some dellorto spare parts and so I could finish the work on the carb. The air filter housing is also ready but I do not have a air filter and I do not have the parts required for connecting the air filter housing to the carb. I would bie happy if someone could tell me part numbers?

dellrto parts carb done connecting

 Posted by at 21:30
Jan 092011
 

After more than 2 years in which I didn’t have the¬†time to work on my bikes, I have decided that I will continue with the SS-350. Well, actually I still do not have a lot of time left¬†as there is still a lot of more important work to do, but I am going to¬†take the time!
I took the carb, disassembled it and cleaned it with the ultra sonic bath and some “DREMEL polishing” and the result is not too bad. The carb was very dirty all over¬†but not damaged as far as I can tell. I have¬†already ordered a few new screws and new gaskets which are still available.

Notes:

  • Metering Pin: V10
  • Low Speed Jet: 45
  • Main Nozzle: 265T /(125)
  • Starting Jet: 70

carb-vhb30as-1.jpg carb-vhb30as-2.jpg carb-vhb30as-3.jpg carb-vhb30as-4.jpg carb-vhb30as-5.jpg carb-vhb30as-6.jpg carb-vhb30as-7.jpg carb-vhb30as-8.jpg

 Posted by at 00:24
Jan 082011
 
  • Disassembling the front fork
  • Polishing the front fork. Left side “after” and on the right side “before”
  • Redone front fork
  • Rear wheel and front fork back in frame
  • sprintgabel.jpg¬†gabel.jpg¬†fork.jpg¬†jan08.jpg

 Posted by at 23:37
Jan 082011
 

The wheels are total makeovers. New aluminium rims, new stainless steel spokes. Hubs are polished to shine again and brake shoes are sand blasted. New ball bearings and seals and new Dunlop K82 tires. I also decided for a 19″ instead of a 18″ front wheel.

frontwheel.jpg felge1.jpg rearwheel1.jpg eingespeicht.jpg rad.jpg vorderrad-done.jpg

 Posted by at 23:28
Jan 082011
 

The guy who already painted all my other bikes also repainted the gas tank for the SS350. When he sent me the gas tank it was totally damaged by transport and had to be done again. The decals are reproductions made by myself.

gas tank frame with gas tank

 Posted by at 23:19
Jan 082011
 

The whole frame and a lot of smaller parts are now powder coated. 
I started reassembling with a new steering lock, new ball bearing for the front fork and new turn signals.

Frame powder coated dec06.jpg pulver.jpg reassembling

 Posted by at 23:01