Disassembled kickstarter so I can send it out for rechroming. Cleaned the taillight bracket and removed the camshaft. The oilseal is an uncommon size of 17-32-5 and the ballbearing behing is a 6203
After some basic cleaning on the cylinder I noticed some bad scuffs in the bore which almost look like they are the result of rust. I somehow have the feeling that even a rebore and oversize piston wouldn’t compensate – maybe a 0.8mm – but looking for a better cylinder and oversize piston seems to be the right thing to do right now.
I am currently stuck on the engine, because I need to buy a 36mm wrench for the sprocket gear, borrow a clutch holding tool, and ordering a puller with longer arms to get the starter sprag off the shaft.
Today I packed the left side engine covers and the handlebar so I can send them out for polishing / rechroming tomorrow. I also have two ugly seat pans which I will bring out for sand blasting and powder coating the upcoming week. I will use the pan that comes out better.
A colleague lent me an extractor that worked getting the rotor lose. But somehow I am confused about the shaft, isn’t it supposed to have a notch and a key? Somehow this looks strange. I also learned the hard (hurting way) that it is better to leave the center nut loose on the main shaft when pulling the rotor.
As I am stuck on the left side of the engine as I need to buy or borrow a proper extractor to get the alternator rotor off I turned the engine and trying my luck on the right side. Removed clutch cover, circuit breaker cover, oilstick and speedo shaft.
Then again, I am stuck as I need a proper tool for removing the clutch.
After more than 2 years in which I didn’t have the time to work on my bikes, I have decided that I will continue with the SS-350. Well, actually I still do not have a lot of time left as there is still a lot of more important work to do, but I am going to take the time!
I took the carb, disassembled it and cleaned it with the ultra sonic bath and some “DREMEL polishing” and the result is not too bad. The carb was very dirty all over but not damaged as far as I can tell. I have already ordered a few new screws and new gaskets which are still available.
Notes:
- Metering Pin: V10
- Low Speed Jet: 45
- Main Nozzle: 265T /(125)
- Starting Jet: 70
I collected parts that need to be replaced or were missing on my GT-350. The chain guard is in bad shape and will be replaced by this usable one after painting. The old style fork covers have been missing on my bike. They are not necessary but they were mounted by factory in 1970. Those mufflers are perfect NOS parts which costed me some money. I know, most people replace them by a single exhaust as a one-in-two exhaust just makes the bike heavier, but I like it as factory original as possible.
The orange one is the correct fender for the 1970 model. Bought it on ebay USA and had it sent to Germany. That is why it has got the tail light as used on the SS-350 (export) models with HD vin. When restoring, I will use a European style tail light, which looks modern and sleek compared to the US version.
My first picture of the GT-350. I took it at a resting area at the “Autobahn” on my way home from the seller, who lives close to “Lake Constance”, which is a 2 hour car ride away from me. Well, the bike wasn’t too expensive, but it is in a worse condition as it may seem at first sight.
It has got an Italian VIN and still the Italian license plate, which means this bike wasn’t for export which makes it a GT-350 and not a SS-350. Differences are minor to a US-model. Odometer showed 17128 kilometers and the bike was in an overall bad condition.
Everything started with the frame of an Aermacchi Harley-Davidson SS-175, which I bought in 2001. They guy who owned the bike before, had used it as a lamp for his room. He changed the original 12V bulbs against household 220V bulbs, that’s why you can see the plugs in this picture. Odometer showed 3881 miles at this time.