Feb 062011

Disassembled kickstarter so I can send it out for rechroming. Cleaned the taillight bracket and removed the camshaft. The oilseal is an uncommon size of 17-32-5 and the ballbearing behing is a 6203

kickstart.jpg kickstart2.jpg taillight-bracket.jpg taillight-bracket2.jpg taillight-bracket3.jpg camshaft-out.jpg camshaft-out2.jpg camshaft-out3.jpg outer-clutch.jpg right-side-inside.jpg

 Posted by at 18:46
Feb 032011

Jürgen send me his self made tool for removing the clutch hub. Together with a power wrench I was able to get the center nut lose and to remove the clutch hub. The surprise followed instantly, as for the nut of the clutch shell I need a kind of spanner tool.

clutch-tool.jpg clutch-inner.jpg clutch-outer.jpg inside-right-side.jpg inside-right-side2.jpg

 Posted by at 23:26
Jan 282011

I had the lamp housing powdercoated a while a go. The reflector brackets and reflectors are nos. Today I bought a standard aftermarket H4 lamp insert that fits quiet good. The difference is that there is an extra parking light so I have to rember this, when the bike will be rewired.

headlight1.jpg headlight2.jpg

 Posted by at 21:51
Jan 252011

After some basic cleaning on the cylinder I noticed some bad scuffs in the bore which almost look like they are the result of rust. I somehow have the feeling that even a rebore and oversize piston wouldn’t compensate – maybe a 0.8mm – but looking for a better cylinder and oversize piston seems to be the right thing to do right now.

bore1.jpg bore2.jpg

 Posted by at 21:53
Jan 232011

I am currently stuck on the engine, because I need to buy a 36mm wrench for the sprocket gear, borrow a clutch holding tool, and ordering a puller with longer arms to get the starter sprag off the shaft.

Today I packed the left side engine covers and the handlebar so I can send them out for polishing / rechroming tomorrow. I also have two ugly seat pans which I will bring out for sand blasting and powder coating the upcoming week. I will use the pan that comes out better.


 Posted by at 18:40
Jan 192011

Well, I am no expert, but I am pretty sure this starter motor will not start any engine ever again. I am lucky that I bought a new one as replacement years ago, just because I got it for a good price. My replacement starter is the improved version which disengages when the engine fires back.

starter-motor.jpg starter-motor2.jpg starter-motor3.jpg starter-motor4.jpg starter-motor-new.jpg

 Posted by at 23:46
Jan 172011

A colleague lent me an extractor that worked getting the rotor lose. But somehow I am confused about the shaft, isn’t it supposed to have a notch and a key? Somehow this looks strange. I also learned the hard (hurting way) that it is better to leave the center nut loose on the main shaft when pulling the rotor.

extractor.jpg coils.jpg alternatorshaft.jpg alternator-inside.jpg

 Posted by at 20:56
Jan 162011

As I am stuck on the left side of the engine as I need to buy or borrow a proper extractor to get the alternator rotor off I turned the engine and trying my luck on the right side. Removed clutch cover, circuit breaker cover, oilstick and speedo shaft.

Then again, I am stuck as I need a proper tool for removing the clutch.

 right-side.jpg covers-off.jpg covers.jpg tachoabnehmer.jpg circuitbreaker.jpg clutch-release.jpg

 Posted by at 17:01
Jan 152011

Today I drained the engine oil removed some of the clutch parts and cleaned some parts. I then noticed the kickstart shaft already has some broken out teeth. I have to find a replacement for it.

 draining.jpg oilfilter.jpg oilfilter2.jpg kickstart shaft clutch parts clutch shaft

 Posted by at 00:01
Jan 132011

Today I received some dellorto spare parts and so I could finish the work on the carb. The air filter housing is also ready but I do not have a air filter and I do not have the parts required for connecting the air filter housing to the carb. I would bie happy if someone could tell me part numbers?

dellrto parts carb done connecting

 Posted by at 21:30
Jan 092011

After more than 2 years in which I didn’t have the time to work on my bikes, I have decided that I will continue with the SS-350. Well, actually I still do not have a lot of time left as there is still a lot of more important work to do, but I am going to take the time!
I took the carb, disassembled it and cleaned it with the ultra sonic bath and some “DREMEL polishing” and the result is not too bad. The carb was very dirty all over but not damaged as far as I can tell. I have already ordered a few new screws and new gaskets which are still available.


  • Metering Pin: V10
  • Low Speed Jet: 45
  • Main Nozzle: 265T /(125)
  • Starting Jet: 70

carb-vhb30as-1.jpg carb-vhb30as-2.jpg carb-vhb30as-3.jpg carb-vhb30as-4.jpg carb-vhb30as-5.jpg carb-vhb30as-6.jpg carb-vhb30as-7.jpg carb-vhb30as-8.jpg

 Posted by at 00:24
Jan 082011
  • Disassembling the front fork
  • Polishing the front fork. Left side “after” and on the right side “before”
  • Redone front fork
  • Rear wheel and front fork back in frame
  • sprintgabel.jpg gabel.jpg fork.jpg jan08.jpg

 Posted by at 23:37
Jan 082011

The wheels are total makeovers. New aluminium rims, new stainless steel spokes. Hubs are polished to shine again and brake shoes are sand blasted. New ball bearings and seals and new Dunlop K82 tires. I also decided for a 19″ instead of a 18″ front wheel.

frontwheel.jpg felge1.jpg rearwheel1.jpg eingespeicht.jpg rad.jpg vorderrad-done.jpg

 Posted by at 23:28
Jan 082011

The guy who already painted all my other bikes also repainted the gas tank for the SS350. When he sent me the gas tank it was totally damaged by transport and had to be done again. The decals are reproductions made by myself.

gas tank frame with gas tank

 Posted by at 23:19
Dec 292007

I found this NOS original seat in perfect condition on ebay. This is the correct one for a 1970 model. On my bike a previous owner mounted a seat of a 1971-1972 model which looks more modern and also is not so heavy. The 1970 seat is old school style with metal springs.


 Posted by at 19:37
Dec 122007

I collected parts that need to be replaced or were missing on my GT-350. The chain guard is in bad shape and will be replaced by this usable one after painting. The old style fork covers have been missing on my bike. They are not necessary but they were mounted by factory in 1970. Those mufflers are perfect NOS parts which costed me some money. I know, most people replace them by a single exhaust as a one-in-two exhaust just makes the bike heavier, but I like it as factory original as possible.

chain-cover-usable dustcovers
dustcovers2 silencers-nos

 Posted by at 19:36
Oct 132007

The orange one is the correct fender for the 1970 model. Bought it on ebay USA and had it sent to Germany. That is why it has got the tail light as used on the SS-350 (export) models with HD vin. When restoring, I will use a European style tail light, which looks modern and sleek compared to the US version.


 Posted by at 19:29
Sep 022007

My first picture of the GT-350. I took it at a resting area at the “Autobahn” on my way home from the seller, who lives close to “Lake Constance”, which is a 2 hour car ride away from me. Well, the bike wasn’t too expensive, but it is in a worse condition as it may seem at first sight.
It has got an Italian VIN and still the Italian license plate, which means this bike wasn’t for export which makes it a GT-350 and not a SS-350. Differences are minor to a US-model. Odometer showed 17128 kilometers and the bike was in an overall bad condition.


 Posted by at 19:15
Apr 292003

Well, on April 29th I got the official papers to make my bike street legal. It took me some time, money and work because I have no old papers or anything for my bike.

 Posted by at 23:50
Aug 102001

Everything started with the frame of an Aermacchi Harley-Davidson SS-175, which I bought in 2001. They guy who owned the bike before, had used it as a lamp for his room. He changed the original 12V bulbs against household 220V bulbs, that’s why you can see the plugs in this picture. Odometer showed 3881 miles at this time.

 Posted by at 22:48